The pink high-rise Edgewater Beach Apartments on Sheridan
Road near Bryn Mawr stand as a reminder of the similar-looking yellow Edgewater
Beach Hotel structures that once stood nearby. During its heyday in the 1920s
through the 1940s, the hotel was a popular spot with honeymooners and
celebrities alike. The hotel featured a large private beach and seaplane
service to downtown. You could also eat one heck of a salad there.
Chef Arnold Shircliffe worked as the catering manager at the
hotel. An extensive collection of his salad recipes, A Book of Salads: The
Edgewater Beach Hotel Salad Book, was first published in 1926. It was known
as “the bible of salad,” according to the Chicago Tribune archives.
In this book, Shircliffe elevates salads into works of art.
Presentation is key, as many of the recipes describe how to artfully arrange
the ingredients on the plate. Many of the salads are topped with decorative
rosettes of cream cheese and other garnishes. Many also include unexpected
combinations of fruits and vegetables. For example, in the Wedding Ring Salad
recipe, slices of orange and green pepper and a cherry are arranged on top of a
mound of rice to resemble a wedding ring. The Edgewater Beach Salad contains
lettuce, pineapple, grapefruit, orange, cress, cream cheese, red pepper, and
olives arranged in the shape of the hotel’s monogram design.
In a lengthy Foreword to the cookbook, Shircliffe extols the
health benefits of salads and acknowledges that “American women have made the
salad an American institution.” Shircliffe writes, “There is nothing that I
know of that will cheer the fagging spirits and put joy into a girl’s heart quicker
than for her to take one look at an epicurean delicacy in the form of a
beautiful salad.” Clearly, Shircliffe knew how to cater to his female
clientele.
The heyday of the Edgewater Beach Hotel came to an end in
the early 1950s when Lake Shore Drive was extended north from Foster Avenue to
Hollywood Avenue, essentially blocking the hotel’s direct access to the lake.
Shircliffe went on to become manager of the Wrigley Building restaurant, a
position he held until his death in 1952. The Edgewater Beach hotel was
bankrupt by 1967 and demolished in 1971. Today the iconic pink Edgewater Beach
Apartments building is the only portion of the complex that remains.
But Shircliffe’s elegant salad recipes live on. The
Breakfast Salad begins with several lettuce leaves, on top of which is piled
tomato, scrambled eggs whipped with cream and Worcestershire sauce, and boiled
ham. The Maiden Blush Salad contains a strange combination of lettuce,
pineapple, banana, pear, celery, strawberry, bar de luc, whipped cream, and mayonnaise.
Of the many salads in Shircliffe’s book, the Doctor Salad
was one of the most popular and one he was most proud of. He wrote, “Once
ordered, it meets with favor, and if the author only contributed this one
recipe to the book it alone would be worth the price paid.” Of the salad’s
ingredients, Shircliffe noted that “Lettuce means health, and health is youth.
The tomato has minerals and a lively hue. Minerals for health and color to aid
digestion. The cheese has lime, calcium and phosphorous, all health giving
elements.” Shircliffe wrote of this salad, “It is economical, it is well
balanced, and if eaten with toasted gluten or whole-wheat bread and a glass of
milk, it makes an ideal luncheon.”
This healthy salad can help take you back to the Edgewater Beach Hotel’s glory days. The only way to eat it is to dig into the cottage cheese and tomato with a knife and fork and cut up the lettuce leaves into bite-sized pieces.
Doctor Salad
*based on salad master Arnold Shircliffe’s recipe in A Book of Salads: The Edgewater Beach Hotel Salad Book
Ingredients:
Lettuce
Tomato
Cottage Cheese
Chives
Cream cheese (optional)
Cress (optional)
Directions:
Chop a small amount of chives and mix with cottage cheese. Place several large leaves of lettuce on a plate. Place a large slice of tomato in the center of the lettuce. On top of the tomato, place a scoop of the cottage cheese mixed with chives. Be careful not to use too big a scoop of cottage cheese or it will fall off the sides of the tomato slice. Garnish with chopped chives. If you want to get really fancy, garnish with cress (if you can find it) and cream cheese rosettes just like Arnold Shircliffe used to do.
Sources:
Shircliffe, Arnold. A Book of Salads: The Edgewater Beach
Hotel Salad Book. Chicago: Hotel Monthly Press, 1946.
Chicago Tribune archives
“Edgewater Beach Hotel.” WTTW Chicago Time Machine.
“Saucy Salads and Sandwiches at the Edgewater Beach Hotel,”
Forgotten Chicago: Examining Vintage Postcards. August 2, 2020.
“Edgewater Beach Apartments—History.” Edgewater Beach
Apartments.
“Edgewater Beach Hotel.” Wikipedia. May 23, 2023.
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